Probably One Of The Best Meals Of My Life

Above: Warm Caolin Potato Cased in Eatable Clay/Vegetable Carpaccio (Watrermelon) with Cured Cheese and Dried Hazelnuts

Before traveling to Spain, I saw a brief segment on the cuisine of a well known 2 Michelin Star restaurant just outside of San Sebastian. Mugaritz was the place that I initially viewed as another hippy grown garden/restaurant with a charge of 30 dollars a plate for seasonal ingredients garnished with pea greens.   I thought I had seen this movie somewhere before and immediately made foolish judgments on what to expect.  

Above: Langoustine Tail with Amaranth and Sardine Broth

Well, I was wrong. I don't think I could have anticipated such a unique respect for both ingredient and technique. I was immediately taken with the unique philosophy of chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, who played as many great chefs do, displaying only the best ingredients with impeccable technique matched perfectly to each dish. But, a uniqueness of exploration and even exploitation of some of the most basic characteristics of ingredients.

The exploration and exploitation started with the Caolin Potatoes which proceeded an initial stack of crispy shrimps with ailoli.  I thought it clever to start the meal off with something similar to a digestive .  The Caolin Potato exploits the earthiness of the potato by encasing it in ceramic clay.  This is to be eaten whole.  Simple in flavor and an experience never to forget.

Of the many dishes that followed, Flowers Flowers Flowers is probably one that I will always remember.  This dish simply showcased the many eatable flowers that exist.  I initially thought the dish was going to be bitter, but there was a strong balance brought by fried artichoke petals which made the dish and complemented the other fragrant and slightly bitter flowers.

Above: Flowers, Flowers, Flowers/Hot Vegetable Soup with Dehydrated Tubers

The dishes explained above are only a fraction of the ten coarse meal enjoyed by me and my chef friends.  Tied along with the meal was excellent service from an international staff and an excellent and affordable wine pairing of local Basc and Spanish wines.

Above: Torija: Rich Bread Soaked with Farm Fresh Egg Yolk

This is one of these places you have to go to before you die.  Not only for the food, but the experience.  You immediately become educated following this meal and as a chef become inspired.

It Isn't Just Classical

Me and Chef Jesus Velazca (Above) Clam, Yellow Tomato and Sea Urchin.

A common theme for modern dishes in Spain is the recreation of the classics.  Dishes like the previously mentioned "migas" or classics, like patatas bravas are made extra special in many of the Michelin rated establishments across Spain.  

I found that an important step in approaching and better understanding these modern recreations is to know understand the classics.  Your appreciation for the recreation is then so much greater and your palate can gear itself to a familiar comfort level.

One of the simplest "recreations" or as foodies call it reinterpretation, I have found traveling through Spain was the patata brava.  Typically, a fried potato served with rich aioli and a spicy tomato sauce (mild by American standards). It's basically Spain's answer to the french fry.

This comfort food was expertly reinterpreted at one of my first gastronomic experiences in a town called Guadalupe.  The restaurant, Amparito Roca carries a Michelin Star and is decorated with portrates of visiting Spanish royalty and other well know figures.

The patata brava here was cleaverly filled with warm aioli and topped with spheraficated spicy tomato sauce.  "Spherification" is a technique made famous by Ferran Adria and is now a common application for many sauces.

I highly recommend Velazca's restaurant to any amateur.  His food was simple in flavor profile and dependent on good ingredients.  His use of modern technique tied to classics is especially appealing to someone just learning the complexities of Spanish cuisine.

Castilla la Mancha "Discovering Strong Roots of Spanish Cuisine"

It would be a mistake to see Sigüenza through only one lens. Though a strong Catholic culture currently cradles this little jewel and is easily seen by a church every 20ft, the Moorish, Jewish and Roman influences are obvious. It can be seen in the ancient barrios "neighborhoods" of the Sephardic Jews or the Arabian influences on the existing ancient architecture.

As a cook, it is very important to understand the historical roots of an area to then further understand it's cuisine. A combination of peasant Christian, aromatic Moorish and Sephardic Jewish cooking techniques and dishes do a great justice not only for the cuisine of Sigüenza, but for Spain in general.

Below you can see some of the "old cuisine" of Spain. Probably one of the best meals I have had in Spain was one of the most unpretentious and humble ones. We were served Migas first. Toasty bread cooked with "matanza" or all the extras from the pig like chorizo and pancetta fat, blood sausage and made slightly moist by water. This peasant/hunter dish can be found with or without egg and/or grapes. To me this dish defines much of Spain's history. A struggle for resources with a history of constant civil war made a decision on what dishes to prepare easy, whatever was available. This, along with evedence of peasant christian influence with the bread and Roman influence with the grapes tell an interesting story.

The origin of migas are told in a story that many Spaniards seem to be familiar with. The Shepard's used to carry bread in their leather satchels with chorizo on top. As a result of the hot Spanish summers the chorizo would melt throughout the day. The resulting crumb at the bottom of the satchel was seasoned with chorizo or "matanza" thus creating migas. The varieties vary throughout Spain and are as diverse as the culture itself.



Another treat offered to us was the young goat with potatoes. This dish details some of the Moorish influence with a protein commonly consumed in the Moorish culture. What made this dish so wonderful was the ancient brick oven it was fire roasted in. The seasoned bricks for the oven were taken stone by stone from an abandoned village which give the meat a very distinct and sought out flavor profile. Additional preparation for the goat isn't too detailed. Salt, water, white wine, a good fire, time and bricks that are hundreds of years old. WOW.

Spain..We Have Arrived

If I had anyone worried as to weather I would be posting any of my travels or not I apologize. Let’s just say I’ve been a little busy. It’s early to explain any lasting impressions this trip will have on me. Thus far, I have been left speechless.

As I arrived in Madrid and was greeted by a young lady from ICEX, I was all the sudden brought to Hotel Catalonia. It seemed almost fitting that my first stop in Spain carried a name tied to me and my family. My younger brother, Jeremy, has a Catalan Godfather, while my brother Marc and I are both tied to the Catalonian country through extensive visits. If I ever thought of something as being an omen or sign of good luck, this would be it. Needless to say, so far I have been right.

Only 2 hours in Spain and I was leaving on a bus to a town called Sigüenza. Unable to sleep for many hours, I couldn’t help but feel the excitement of discovering a new place and experiencing a different life.

Arriving in Sigüenza it was obviouse that this Feudal town was riddled with culture and history. Mainly defined by the Castillo Old Arabian alcazaba, the image of Sigüenza is modest and ancient.

A tour of the town, introduced by the mayor, explained the pueblos Morrish, Jewish and Roman influences while experts in Spanish Olive Oils and local cheeses gave everyone a peek into the current artisan nature of Sigüenza.

But a historical introduction and a few tastings in this humble town were only the beginning. I will follow up on the many food demonstrations and experiences that guided us further through Sigüenza's gastronomic culture including: a goat roast, discovering true Spanish Migas, the humble potaje, dinner at the castle, a live and wirey food competition followed by an amazing and deserving reception, a tour of an ancient salt mine, and drinking a purro with some of Spains most gastronomic figures.

Pollo n' Key Lime Pie

South Florida is an interesting place for a gourmand. On one hand you have a much appreciated mix of Caribbean, Latin, and Jewish cultures to provide an eclectic mix of spicy jerk meat's, arroz con pollo (Latin chicken with rice) and babka's among other treats. While on the flipside you can find this clutter of corporate cookie cutter full service establishments. These Cheesecake Factory type eateries do have their place with those individuals who appreciate a hefty two pounds of food and enough menu options that one would need a Trapper Keeper to keep it all organized.
I haven't set out on my travels to find the restaurants and foods that I don't agree with, but the foods that really show the character, culture and ingredients of the world I'm in.

One of the best experiences I have found in Florida came from Bob Roth's New River Groves in Davie Florida. This citrus stand provides an array of juices and a substantial offering of imported Israeli honeys. One of the sweet and aromatic honeys that caught my eye was the Avocado Blossom Honey. A gift item for certain and definitely not for the oatmeal. But, what made this grove stand such a memorable experience wasn't the gift items and fudge, it was a wonderfully tart key lime pie. I have found a new appreciation for the dessert and I truly believe that one can never fully appreciate this pie until a trip is made to Davie, FL. It is all in the tartness provided from the kumquat sized key limes. And this pie is easily washed down and balanced out with fresh coconut water available to sip right out of the green gourdes themselves or for purchase in the half gallon.

Another food adventure I found can be recommended to anyone on a budget. Pollo Tropical, a limited service restaurant that can be found throughout the Dade County and Broward County area is highly recommended for their succulent chicken roasts and a yucca with garlic sauce that is to die for. The portions are very generous and the food is fast, flavorful and pretty authentic. This place makes McD's look like a freakin' joke and it costs about the same.

If you're one who enjoys to cook the local produce and product yourself, I'd recommend a trip to the Swap Shop near Ft. Lauderdale. If you can avoid the tacky yet characteristic fun park and make your way around fake Prada wear and cheap sunglasses the place actually has a farmers market full of some of the most beautiful produce around. Chile's and and peppers are aplenty and tropical fruit are some of the only things that add eye appeal to the Swap Shop. The bananas are sweet and worth eating, the yucca is cheap, and the papaya is not over ripe. I was happy to enjoy some orange-green bell peppers in a fritata at home and gained a new appreciation for the simplest of ingredients.

So I do hope that all who read do take these suggestions with them on their next trip to the Sunshine State.

Buen Provecho

Goodby to Austin, Its Been Swell...

Another chapter has ended. I now part ways with Texas hill country and move on. Austin will forever remind me of breakfast tacos, menudo and chilequiles and that's just breakfast. One of my fondest memories is passing through Fredricksburg and experiencing the very small, but very sweet peaches of the area. Though my time in Austin was quite short (5 months), it was enough to help me experience the colorful foods, people and places of the area. I have a new addiction to Pasilla Chiles (chiles negros) which give off a mild to medium heat and helped me perfect my chili. I will certainly miss the Green Belt and riding bikes down the drag with hundreds during Critical Mass and will never forget the sin of all sins...kolaches (little calorie packed pastries with fillings).

Now my travels continue. I'll be spending some time in Ft. Lauderdale in a week and hope to get my hands on a decent Baleada (A Hondurian street food consisting of a flour tortilla, refried bean, egg, a specialty hard cheese and a sweet/sour cream) mmmmmmmm. I highly recomend these treats. If you're familiar with how good a breakfast taco with migas is than you should check it out.

After my time in Florida, I will be off to Spain. Madrid, Barcelona and Ezcaray (a town in Rioja). I will continue to blog on my experiences and hopefully record my food findings weekly.

Stay Happy,
Matt