Matanza in Extremadura

It’s hard to think of nothing else than the Lord of the Flies when I reflect on the Matanza myself and the other ICEX scholarship recipients experienced in the Extremadura countryside. “Kill the pig! Cut his throat! Kill the pig! Bash him in!” - William Golding, Lord of the Flies, Ch. 7. Maybe the quote is harsh, but it’s probably the phrase that comes closest to the adrenaline that flew through most of the group and me on that January day. The children in the novel explored something that I think all humans have in common, we are all hunters by nature, and we are all bonded by the blood that is spilt from the food we eat (meat eaters, at least). No, we didn’t suddenly form into salvage tribes and lose ourselves in the hills of Extremadura, that story was already explored by Golding, what we did do though is gain a completely new appreciation and understanding of the food we eat.

For any chef, food expert, or food writer this step is key to becoming a true representative and expert of your craft. The squeals of the Iberian hog particularly reminded me not to waist anything when it comes to animal sacrifice. The beady eyes of the “guarro” made sure I didn’t take any piece of precious acorn scented fat for granted.

Morning came and we left from our evening stay in the Rocamador hotel. An elegant converted monastery with character and culture flowing through the halls which chanted old monk hymns. Warmed by private antique fireplaces in each room we prepared ourselves on what was a rainy morning. We knew we were in for a treat when 4x4 trucks and SUVs showed to take us to our destination. Anxious to get to the site of the Matanza, Elliot from China and Bobby from the U.S. along with myself were the first to set sail to the “campo”(country farm).

The ride itself was muddy, muddy, muddy and the roads respectfully were narrow and bumpy. This for me completely built up the anticipation and quickly erased any hangover left from the countless Spanish wines the night before. Once we arrived to what I would describe as a posh staging area for Matanza’s, the sun popped out with a permanent presence.

Walking into this staging area we immediately understood what we were getting into. Hanging in the rafters were countless cured sausages, chorizos and loins. Opposite of the entrance, a warm wood fire was burning with plenty of stools surrounding it. There was a pot of migas (a hunters dish varying depending on region and the cook, migas literally translate to crumbs and the dish always showcases old bread) also on the fire which dispersed toasty notes throughout the room. Each of the farmers present in the room took their turn turning the migas which require constant attention.

Then everything happened really, really fast. Before the hosts could get the word volunteers out of their mouths: Elliot, Bobby and Myself were in the truck to go catch us a piggy. We drove about five minutes to a pigpen set up for swine to be slaughtered. These hogs are starved for 24 hours to clean the GI tract making for a much more safe and clean Matanza. Outside of the pen, the “wild hogs” can be seen grazing free in the countryside. We later found out that these hogs require 1 and ½ to 2 hectares of grazing territory each or about two football fields (3 to 4 acres) to be considered true Iberian hogs and fall into the D.O. guidelines. Yes these were the mythical pigs that US citizens and especially chefs only read about: true Iberian Cerdo de Bellota (acorn fed and Iberian bred hogs).

After about a 15 minute wrestling match between us and the hog we shoved the beast onto a rigged trailer. Jose, one of the farmers, said they typically slaughter the hogs in the same pen area, but since everyone wanted to see the matanza, we were to bring him down to the staging area. It took 4 failed attempts to get the darned pig onto the trailer. Squeeling loudly, Jose stuck his finger up the pigs rear to get him moving, but a little rectal irritation wasn’t going to get him all the way to the trailer. Then the pig was grabbed by the ears and lassoed by the mouth. All of us then shoved, shoved and shoved until the beast was in his place and his excrements were on my hands.

Jose and his buddy went immediately for their packs of Lucky Strikes and lit up. Short of breath, Jose who initially told Bobby that he could drive the knife into the hog, retracted his statement and said “sorry but after that wrestling match I wanna “matar el puto guarro yo mismo!!!” or kill the damned pig myself!!!

We drove back to the site and hauled the hog off the trailer. It was almost as if the swine new it was his time to die. Directly in front of the trailer was a raised iron platform with bars running parallel. A volunteer was requested and I immediately entered to raise the pig up for the slaughter. We held him tightly in place and the knife was then passed to Bobby. The best irony of Bobby wielding the knife of death is that Bobby is a frickin’ vegetarian…..or was.

So you can’t expect a vegetarian to make a clean kill on his first go. No, I’m not saying it wasn’t a good jab of the knife, because it was, but, it surely didn’t make a quick kill. The knife was pushed in and the pig suffered for about four minutes, ok more like six.

Bobby was then christened with the pig’s blood by Jose, a right of passage into manhood. “good job Bobby!”

Blood pouring from the pigs neck was stirred by one of the ladies assisting so to prohibit the coagulation of the blood and to make for a decent “morcilla” or blood sausage and our farmers then began to burn the hide of the beast to eliminate all hair and dirt remaining.

The slicing and dicing followed as we were explained the different cuts and order of them in a matanza. Huge amounts of fat were yielded from the Iberian pig, which we were told was yet another unique quality of the pig. From these different cuts, we continued on to make sausages, chorizos and loins which were to be cured.

I could literally write an entire book of the details of each step of this experience. Each moment was vivid with tension and excitement. The only way one could calm down was the enormous feast that followed.

Fresh chorizo served with farmer’s bread started us off. We were also shown a fridge full of beer, a necessary element to any matanza. Following was several different spiced sausage mixtures that we simply grasped with some bread and our hands. By the fire, the ladies had working a mix called caldillo. This caldillo is comprised of mainly pig liver, but also can include the kidney, manteca or lard, cumin, cinnamon, garlic, paprika, salt and pepper. I have to say, I’m a huge fan of this stuff and if it weren’t so high in calories I could have made a sandwich with the “Man-Wich” like mix.

Stuffed and unable to go any further, we continued to enjoy the fire and sip on wine.
Our hosts told stories of their past acting careers and perversions that came with. As a group of chefs we also jokingly reflected on the day and the experience. One I will never forget.

Madridfusion:

I know…I know! I haven’t written in this blog for quite some time. I think the scarceness of my blogs would be the case for anyone living in the Rioja wine country. I’ve been living a little too hard, enjoying wines, chorizos and the countryside.

As much as I’d love to begin on my detailed stories and descriptions of regional Riojan cuisine, the people and the culture, I’ve decided to save it till the end of the trip. There is literally a books worth of recipes, experiences and purple toothed tales to place in one blog and the truth is I am currently too busy livin’ the dream!

So to hold anyone interested over until I spill all my tales of hearty Riojan life, I thought it a great time to share my experience with Madridfusion or what I can remember for that matter. Yeah there was an open bar…so what.

Probably the most mesmerizing of the four day congress was the abundance of expert chefs and food experts. There were literally about 10 of my biggest heroes in one building on any given day. Ferran Adria, Charlie Trotter, Thomas Keller, Harold Magee, Heston Blumenthal, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Nobu Matsuhisa etc. etc. etc.

Myself with Charlie Trotter

Hearing Ferran’s thoughts on properly naming his cuisine as it was debated with Heston, Andoni, Harold, and Davide was as entertaining as taking part in a whisky and food pairing and be assured the whiskey was only Johnny Walker Blue Label. Wow! Actually, I think one of the smartest things I did the whole show was make quick friends with the gentlemen serving the very expensive distilled gold (JWB).

Whiskey guy

Ferran was as zany as always with his head partially in another place. He did make great points on correctly defining Molecular Gastronomy, a complicated set of terms that confuses many. He stated that Science Gastronomy seemed a better fit so to not scare off individuals who find the more confusing “molecular gastronomy” offsetting. Harold, Davide and company did agree and I think some progress was made on simplifying the understanding of dishes and techniques new to Spain and the food world.

Other experiences in the event included a wine tasting from Navarra which offered some 50+ wines from the region, a tequila tasting from Mexico (the invited country of 09’), food demonstrations from some of my favorite well known chefs in Spain like Dani Garcia.

Tequila Tasting

The entire event was catered with lunch provided in the form of a tapas tasting from different regions every day. The small bites were hit or miss depending on the day.(I give props to the Paradores Hotels for good eats and decent jamon). But not to worry, when the food failed me, Adam Melonas (sous chef of the Casino in Madrid and probably one of the most respected chefs coming from Australia) and some other culinary respectfuls were sure to hit up the free gin and tonics, beers or wines to hold us over.

I never thought I would say this, but, drinking and bar-booth hopping was and is a vital part of networking at these events. Just imagine a convention center full of food and wine people…ridiculously drunk and getting to know each other…good times. And the norm for most of us.

The Fusion was good stuff. For me it showed to be more about networking than anything else. Though the food demonstrations tied throughout were impressive. I was also reminded on how much I am entertained by Ferran’s public speaking and how much excitement exists for good food and wine.

Some of the deeper conversations with fellow chefs like Adam Melonas made me scratch my head and become even more inspired to learn, create and live.

My adrenaline is simply up here in Spain. I am currently having the time of my life. Following the Fusion I will be off to Extremadura to participate in a Matanza (traditional pig slaughter) which I will document with detail and share with all of you. On my return to Rioja I will continue to post on the many restaurants I have eaten at in Spain including: Atrio in Caceres, Can Roca in Girona, Abac in Barcelona, El Poblet in Denia, Cider houses in San Sebastian, Tapas in Madrid, Saffron tastings at Monastrell in Alicante and tours of La Boqueria in Barcelona etc. etc.

Livin’ the Dream!

Probably One Of The Best Meals Of My Life

Above: Warm Caolin Potato Cased in Eatable Clay/Vegetable Carpaccio (Watrermelon) with Cured Cheese and Dried Hazelnuts

Before traveling to Spain, I saw a brief segment on the cuisine of a well known 2 Michelin Star restaurant just outside of San Sebastian. Mugaritz was the place that I initially viewed as another hippy grown garden/restaurant with a charge of 30 dollars a plate for seasonal ingredients garnished with pea greens.   I thought I had seen this movie somewhere before and immediately made foolish judgments on what to expect.  

Above: Langoustine Tail with Amaranth and Sardine Broth

Well, I was wrong. I don't think I could have anticipated such a unique respect for both ingredient and technique. I was immediately taken with the unique philosophy of chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, who played as many great chefs do, displaying only the best ingredients with impeccable technique matched perfectly to each dish. But, a uniqueness of exploration and even exploitation of some of the most basic characteristics of ingredients.

The exploration and exploitation started with the Caolin Potatoes which proceeded an initial stack of crispy shrimps with ailoli.  I thought it clever to start the meal off with something similar to a digestive .  The Caolin Potato exploits the earthiness of the potato by encasing it in ceramic clay.  This is to be eaten whole.  Simple in flavor and an experience never to forget.

Of the many dishes that followed, Flowers Flowers Flowers is probably one that I will always remember.  This dish simply showcased the many eatable flowers that exist.  I initially thought the dish was going to be bitter, but there was a strong balance brought by fried artichoke petals which made the dish and complemented the other fragrant and slightly bitter flowers.

Above: Flowers, Flowers, Flowers/Hot Vegetable Soup with Dehydrated Tubers

The dishes explained above are only a fraction of the ten coarse meal enjoyed by me and my chef friends.  Tied along with the meal was excellent service from an international staff and an excellent and affordable wine pairing of local Basc and Spanish wines.

Above: Torija: Rich Bread Soaked with Farm Fresh Egg Yolk

This is one of these places you have to go to before you die.  Not only for the food, but the experience.  You immediately become educated following this meal and as a chef become inspired.

It Isn't Just Classical

Me and Chef Jesus Velazca (Above) Clam, Yellow Tomato and Sea Urchin.

A common theme for modern dishes in Spain is the recreation of the classics.  Dishes like the previously mentioned "migas" or classics, like patatas bravas are made extra special in many of the Michelin rated establishments across Spain.  

I found that an important step in approaching and better understanding these modern recreations is to know understand the classics.  Your appreciation for the recreation is then so much greater and your palate can gear itself to a familiar comfort level.

One of the simplest "recreations" or as foodies call it reinterpretation, I have found traveling through Spain was the patata brava.  Typically, a fried potato served with rich aioli and a spicy tomato sauce (mild by American standards). It's basically Spain's answer to the french fry.

This comfort food was expertly reinterpreted at one of my first gastronomic experiences in a town called Guadalupe.  The restaurant, Amparito Roca carries a Michelin Star and is decorated with portrates of visiting Spanish royalty and other well know figures.

The patata brava here was cleaverly filled with warm aioli and topped with spheraficated spicy tomato sauce.  "Spherification" is a technique made famous by Ferran Adria and is now a common application for many sauces.

I highly recommend Velazca's restaurant to any amateur.  His food was simple in flavor profile and dependent on good ingredients.  His use of modern technique tied to classics is especially appealing to someone just learning the complexities of Spanish cuisine.

Castilla la Mancha "Discovering Strong Roots of Spanish Cuisine"

It would be a mistake to see Sigüenza through only one lens. Though a strong Catholic culture currently cradles this little jewel and is easily seen by a church every 20ft, the Moorish, Jewish and Roman influences are obvious. It can be seen in the ancient barrios "neighborhoods" of the Sephardic Jews or the Arabian influences on the existing ancient architecture.

As a cook, it is very important to understand the historical roots of an area to then further understand it's cuisine. A combination of peasant Christian, aromatic Moorish and Sephardic Jewish cooking techniques and dishes do a great justice not only for the cuisine of Sigüenza, but for Spain in general.

Below you can see some of the "old cuisine" of Spain. Probably one of the best meals I have had in Spain was one of the most unpretentious and humble ones. We were served Migas first. Toasty bread cooked with "matanza" or all the extras from the pig like chorizo and pancetta fat, blood sausage and made slightly moist by water. This peasant/hunter dish can be found with or without egg and/or grapes. To me this dish defines much of Spain's history. A struggle for resources with a history of constant civil war made a decision on what dishes to prepare easy, whatever was available. This, along with evedence of peasant christian influence with the bread and Roman influence with the grapes tell an interesting story.

The origin of migas are told in a story that many Spaniards seem to be familiar with. The Shepard's used to carry bread in their leather satchels with chorizo on top. As a result of the hot Spanish summers the chorizo would melt throughout the day. The resulting crumb at the bottom of the satchel was seasoned with chorizo or "matanza" thus creating migas. The varieties vary throughout Spain and are as diverse as the culture itself.



Another treat offered to us was the young goat with potatoes. This dish details some of the Moorish influence with a protein commonly consumed in the Moorish culture. What made this dish so wonderful was the ancient brick oven it was fire roasted in. The seasoned bricks for the oven were taken stone by stone from an abandoned village which give the meat a very distinct and sought out flavor profile. Additional preparation for the goat isn't too detailed. Salt, water, white wine, a good fire, time and bricks that are hundreds of years old. WOW.

Spain..We Have Arrived

If I had anyone worried as to weather I would be posting any of my travels or not I apologize. Let’s just say I’ve been a little busy. It’s early to explain any lasting impressions this trip will have on me. Thus far, I have been left speechless.

As I arrived in Madrid and was greeted by a young lady from ICEX, I was all the sudden brought to Hotel Catalonia. It seemed almost fitting that my first stop in Spain carried a name tied to me and my family. My younger brother, Jeremy, has a Catalan Godfather, while my brother Marc and I are both tied to the Catalonian country through extensive visits. If I ever thought of something as being an omen or sign of good luck, this would be it. Needless to say, so far I have been right.

Only 2 hours in Spain and I was leaving on a bus to a town called Sigüenza. Unable to sleep for many hours, I couldn’t help but feel the excitement of discovering a new place and experiencing a different life.

Arriving in Sigüenza it was obviouse that this Feudal town was riddled with culture and history. Mainly defined by the Castillo Old Arabian alcazaba, the image of Sigüenza is modest and ancient.

A tour of the town, introduced by the mayor, explained the pueblos Morrish, Jewish and Roman influences while experts in Spanish Olive Oils and local cheeses gave everyone a peek into the current artisan nature of Sigüenza.

But a historical introduction and a few tastings in this humble town were only the beginning. I will follow up on the many food demonstrations and experiences that guided us further through Sigüenza's gastronomic culture including: a goat roast, discovering true Spanish Migas, the humble potaje, dinner at the castle, a live and wirey food competition followed by an amazing and deserving reception, a tour of an ancient salt mine, and drinking a purro with some of Spains most gastronomic figures.

Pollo n' Key Lime Pie

South Florida is an interesting place for a gourmand. On one hand you have a much appreciated mix of Caribbean, Latin, and Jewish cultures to provide an eclectic mix of spicy jerk meat's, arroz con pollo (Latin chicken with rice) and babka's among other treats. While on the flipside you can find this clutter of corporate cookie cutter full service establishments. These Cheesecake Factory type eateries do have their place with those individuals who appreciate a hefty two pounds of food and enough menu options that one would need a Trapper Keeper to keep it all organized.
I haven't set out on my travels to find the restaurants and foods that I don't agree with, but the foods that really show the character, culture and ingredients of the world I'm in.

One of the best experiences I have found in Florida came from Bob Roth's New River Groves in Davie Florida. This citrus stand provides an array of juices and a substantial offering of imported Israeli honeys. One of the sweet and aromatic honeys that caught my eye was the Avocado Blossom Honey. A gift item for certain and definitely not for the oatmeal. But, what made this grove stand such a memorable experience wasn't the gift items and fudge, it was a wonderfully tart key lime pie. I have found a new appreciation for the dessert and I truly believe that one can never fully appreciate this pie until a trip is made to Davie, FL. It is all in the tartness provided from the kumquat sized key limes. And this pie is easily washed down and balanced out with fresh coconut water available to sip right out of the green gourdes themselves or for purchase in the half gallon.

Another food adventure I found can be recommended to anyone on a budget. Pollo Tropical, a limited service restaurant that can be found throughout the Dade County and Broward County area is highly recommended for their succulent chicken roasts and a yucca with garlic sauce that is to die for. The portions are very generous and the food is fast, flavorful and pretty authentic. This place makes McD's look like a freakin' joke and it costs about the same.

If you're one who enjoys to cook the local produce and product yourself, I'd recommend a trip to the Swap Shop near Ft. Lauderdale. If you can avoid the tacky yet characteristic fun park and make your way around fake Prada wear and cheap sunglasses the place actually has a farmers market full of some of the most beautiful produce around. Chile's and and peppers are aplenty and tropical fruit are some of the only things that add eye appeal to the Swap Shop. The bananas are sweet and worth eating, the yucca is cheap, and the papaya is not over ripe. I was happy to enjoy some orange-green bell peppers in a fritata at home and gained a new appreciation for the simplest of ingredients.

So I do hope that all who read do take these suggestions with them on their next trip to the Sunshine State.

Buen Provecho